Interrail 2023 – 3. – Czech Republic

Salut, moikka, hi, ahoj!

3.0. Munich – Prague

This trip will definitely be a wonderful opportunity to try first-hand all kinds of trouble there can be with train travel! Aboard the RE355 from München Hbf. to Praha Hl. n., it was a classic: a (really) long delay, and some time without a seat because of a wrong information from the DB ticket office (the Alex train is in cooperation with the CD, and the part in Czechia has seat reservations, if this information can be useful to anyone :)).

Anyways, we alighted almost three hours later than scheduled…

3.1. Prague

• Inhabitants: 1.4m/2.6m (metropolitan area)
• Capital of the Czech Republic
• Mayor from the ODS (ECR)
• On the Vltava river

A bit of history

Did you know that Prague played a really important role in one of the most influential events in Europe’s history, the Thirty Years’ War of 1618-1648?

The third defenestration of Prague in 1618 triggered the war, and the battle of Prague was the final act of the war (the Swedes – yes! – attacked Prague and sacked it) before the peace of Westphalia.

The famous Prague’s spring in 1968 is yet another example of how impactful this city has been (and still is)!

So, Interrailing:

I checked in at the hostel*, put my stuff in my locker and went to explore, as the weather forecast was kind of scary (the actual weather confirmed the forecast 😅). I just did 1h30/4km of sightseeing before eating and going to sleep, or at least trying! I mean, two of my roommates were yelling at each other about going or not going to some rave party and the price of drugs in Prague, all of this at 1am while all others were trying to sleep… Great!

I guess I was really tired because I slept until 10am the next day… As there was a storm outside, I decided to go see the National Gallery Prague’s Trade Fair Palace. You know me, I couldn’t have stayed there for less than 5 hours, and I sped up in the end because I was getting hungry! The museography is currently being rethought, so part of the museum was not accessible, but overall it still gave a pretty good picture of Czech fine art and its influences throughout time, which I really liked.

One thing particularly interested me: in the 1919-1938 section they took an extremely interesting approach. Indeed, instead of showing the pieces chronologically, they recreated exhibitions and galleries from that period in Czechoslovakia, attempting to recreate the artistic environment… It was pretty well done!

I then slowly headed to the castle, THE attraction to see in this city. I didn’t enter the buildings, but walked inside the walls, it is quite big!

I then came back to the hostel by taking a long road (I even took the funicular – yes there is one!). I passed in front of one of the visible TV towers (another one was in my hostel’s neighborhood, Žižkov, and let’s just say that no-one can miss it!)

Žižkov is slowly gentrifying, it can easily be seen, but it has kept some of its « rebellious » aspect, despite being composed of stately buildings. The history of this neighborhood in itself is really interesting!

After a good night’s sleep, I woke up early to go and see Charles bridge at dawn, and basically the city was silent, including its most touristic part. I then wandered around under the rain, first to find some breakfast and then to explore more of the city. I went further south than the previous day, which took me to the ruins of the preceding castle (Vyšehrad), also up a hill, as well as to the dancing house, the CAMP, Kafka’s turning head, etc.

I then went to try some Czech goulash with dumplings: definitely not liking it, but I had to try.

I then went for a final walk in the Czech capital, sightseeing the Art Nouveau buildings of the Jewish neighborhood (the history of this part of the city and the Jewish community in Prague is highly interesting!), and finally went to sleep, I had a long day coming!

This city is really crazy! I felt that I could have been there for weeks and still discovered new things (I would have needed a bit more time – and money – to visit more museums, see more exhibitions, attend one (or several) concert.s, etc.! But it was time to leave already… See you next time Prague!

3.2. Brno

While planning my trip, I saw an intriguing city name, and decided to stop there, as it was midway to Wien. Leaving Prague early, I went to Brno, the second largest city in the Czech Republic…

• 390 000/700 000 (metro)
• Mayor ODS (ECR)
• Seat of most country-wide judicial institutions

Only I had forgotten some basic details: on Monday almost all museums are closed (especially the Villa Tugendhat which I wanted to see), and the station’s cloakroom was both incredibly expensive and closed…

Hence, I walked with all my stuff first in the city-center and then to go see the Hrad Špilberk, the city’s castle and former prison.

This prison, I learned yesterday, was really famous as being the harshest (apparently by order of the emperor) in the empire, and a lot of famous political prisoners have been detained there, such as the Carbonari. The castle and city are also well known for resisting a long seat by the Swedes during the 30 years war, amongst others.

The municipal museum was huge, and I had it almost all for myself for three hours. I then went back to the station to catch my train to Vienna!

Anyways, now is the time to finish this post and to go and explore the Austrian capital!

Ahoj, Tschüss!

Jules

*I stayed at « Clown and Bard Hostel ». For one night it does the job, but I really wouldn’t recommend staying there more than that, as the kitchen is far from being well equipped, the bathroom is quite dirty (apparently the women’s doesn’t have a lock which works) and the location, albeit quite near the central train station, is not ideal as being up a hill and not in the best area… There’s also literally no vibe…

Note to myself: next time consider spending a bit more on accommodation… And be slightly more picky…